So you have some broken neck posts...
Don't worry it happens every once in a while when you are trying to
swap heads.
I know, I know, I hate when it happens too, but instead of throwing away
an otherwise perfectly good body, lets try fixing it.
Center doll is an un-broken doll the two on the side are obviously
missing something.
These two examples are nice clean breaks, great candidates to use for
this procedure.
But they don't all break so clan as my
other two examples in the supply picture shows.
Quite often you end up breaking the front of the neck not just the post.
Fixing a Broken Neck Post - lets get started!
supplies:
-
Sculpey Clay (or similar)
-
Super Glue
-
Wood posts - Usually found at the craft store.
I used 7/32 x 1 1/4 inch Axle Pegs -
Something to cut the peg down to the right length.
A good pair of craft scissors or the x-acto worked for me. -
Something to heat set the clay. I use a heat gun but a good hairdryer
works too it just takes longer. -
And of course a doll with a broken neck post.
Pre-OP:
Some things to
consider. The new post will have limited mobility. Side to
side movement will be normal, she'll be able to do the exorcist thing
just fine. Unfortunately she'll lose the ability to nod yes, no up
- no down. You might get some but it will be limited.
Also Though this is a fix, it isn't perfect. Don't expect to be
able to routinely take her head on and off. This method won't
stand up to heavy "Play".
Step One:
Normally if I break a neck post I do such a good job of it that I never have to worry about leaving anything extra in the neck, but if you were pretty gentle and that darn peg that used to hold the post on is still there you'll need to remove it.
A pretty simple job for the x-acto, just be careful.
Once that is done you will have a nice neat neck that is hollow down to the first torso attachment joint near the collar area, so continuing on......
Step Two:
Grab a dot of clay work it to soften it up and then roll it to fit into the neck.
If you didn't have enough to fill the neck just grab some more and add it. You'll want it to look like the picture below.
The excess clay will spread out under the lip if the neck
and fill in any gaps.
Step Three:
Grab a peg and insert it into the neck, pushing the clay in further.
The peg doesn't go in all the way, it stops when it hits that connection joint. Center the peg as best as you can and smooth out the clay. Below are some examples of broken necks that need repair, so that you can see how smoothing the clay is important.
This was a fairly clean chip out of the front. Use
the clay to fill in the missing area.
This was an ugly break! I tried my best to smooth the clay into the hole and the crack. For both of these examples I will have to paint over the damaged area when this is done, but clay does come in flesh tones and you could use one that closely matches the skin type for the doll you are using and hopefully avoid the painting step. It was just easier to show it in the white.
Step FOUR:
Before you remove the peg mark it where the top of the neck is. This will give you something to measure from when it is time to cut the peg.
Now carefully remove the peg from the clay.
Twisting it helps separate it from the clay without pulling the clay
back out of the neck.
Here is the hardest part ..... Heat setting the clay without damaging
the body. If you are using a hair dryer, you won't have to worry
about damage to the body but it will seem like it takes FOREVER to get
the clay to set up.
I use a heat gun and it takes about 10 minutes sometimes
more to get the clay to set up.
If you are using a heat gun here are some guidelines. Keep a good
distance away from the body, the distance above is a little too close.
Only aim the heat at the clay for a few seconds at a time then aim away
and give the body a second or two to cool off again. I usually
place my fingers down near the shoulders and if they get hot that's the
time to pull it away for a second or two. Remember to aim down
into the hole and from front and back getting all the clay to set
evenly.
The clay is set when it is hard to the touch and you don't feel any more
flex in the neck.
Step Five:
Now to cut the new post. I inserted it into the neck again after it was set....a tight fit but my line still matched up so twisting to pull it out again and we are ready to cut the post.
Measure the distance from your line to the end of the post add about 1/8
of an inch.
Now measure down that amount from just under the lip of the top and make
a new mark on the post. This is your cut line. It took a bit
of work to cut it with the knife for me the scissors were a lot easier
just be careful not to mash it when cutting or it wont fit into the hole
you created.
I need to get myself a Dremel tool, it will make cutting things like
this so much easier.
Step Six:
Now it is time to glue the new post in place.
A drop or two into the neck and a small amount coated
around the post. then gently push the post into place.
Two things to note about this picture: The dark rim around the top
of the clay is because I had the heat gun too close to the neck and it
burned the clay. The other thing is the T-pin attached to the
super glue bottle, T-pins work the best for clearing the glue
applicator!
FINAL Step:
Clean up any excess glue. You can see some extra glue at the top of the neck on the doll to the right, this will need to be cleaned up before it dries. Then wait for the Glue to dry and your done.
That's it! Just pop a new head on the post and you're done. Just remember this fix does NOT hold up to removing the head often.
And if you do decide you need to remove the head do so carefully.
